If you are installing the other gauges, you'll need the proper sending units. There will be two connectors still under the dash area which are pushed into plate on the back of the tach. If you care more about function than originality, simply install an aftermarket tach in the clock hole. If the light is working you have a ground as it uses the case as a ground. I know the lights working in the tach because I tried it. According to the schematic above only 2 wires go to the back of the tach.
I guess the tach is shot, right? Is there another wire that goes on the slip on connector on the back stud of the tach. At present There was suppose to be a clock option in the cutlass supreme which I have. Maybe this was not enough? There was one that i connected to the lower center screw on the cluster. The pins on the connector at the gauge need to be reconfigured, too. Also, there were 2 wires in the engine bay that i was unsure about. Hi, My 70 Charger came with a tic toc tach from the factory that is still there.
I do not think the tic tac toc was an option except on the 442. The Dark Blue with the push on connector, and a grey wire with a female pigtail. I have read different things in different places and would like some clarity. Looks like I don't get a spark when I hook up the tach. Oh, you should have a separate orange wire that's in the main wiring harness for the light. I just don't know my wiring lingo that well.
This lead is connected to the coil. The tach feed wire was a separate part that you can get from repro houses but it's very simple to make one yourself. The other wire is a yellow one coming from the blower motor. Refer to the diagram Good luck. I have seen the reproduction harness and they look very close to the original harness. Take a pic of the back of the tach.
Do I need to run a ground to plug on the spade connector onthe back of the tach? Alright, while running I connected the white cable with the coil and the car instantly died. On mine there was a rod slightly bent very hard to notice - straightened it out and voila it works again! The gray wire sticking out with the terminal is power for the clock. A white cable that goes from the spade terminal to the engine bay probably coil and a dark blue cable that goes to the fuse box radio fuse? Can anyone help with the dash wiring details for a 1968 tic toc tach? Depends on the tach, there could be another wire for the light. It appears to go to the clock directly so possibly both that and the blue wire go to constant power. That's what killed most of them. I recently wired my '68 Charger, which has the 440, but mine was a tic-toc-tac. I can figure that part out tho.
Take a pic of the back of the tach. One is a black wire coming from the proportioning valve. This 68 Tic-Toc-Tach has been manufactured to exact specifications including a 5500 redline normally found on 327 and 350 engine models. Make sure you have power with a test light. The underdash harness has the correct plugs for the clock and lights already installed - just plug them in. When I bought the car neither the clock nor the tach were working. Here is a picture from the back of the tach: clock is a grey wire different than the tach feed-check with a meter- should be + 12 volts all the time! And i got to remove some stuff that i didn't need, like the transmission controlled spark switch, the factory horn relay, and a few other nasty looking things.
If you don't replace the engine harness because it's in good shape, one will need to install a wire from the coil to the female connector coming out of the firewall. Bill, is this something you think you can fix yourself by sanding the points, etc. If you are installing the tach for racing, let me say that the factory tic-toc-tac combo is not your best choice. But the new wiring harness also has a new fuse panel with modern fuses. I think it's the black one but I'm not positive. Julian, Thank you for your reply. Logged Went through the wiring diagram again and as it seems my tach is not correctly hooked up.
I know I have the blue power on right. These units have a set of points inside not unlike a distributor that were prone to failing with low battery voltage. Am i missing a ground wire? If you look at page 56 of the attached link It says the male terminal goes to ground. A very small screw driver is needed to remove the small adjusting knob at the end of the small rod used to set the clock. Any information you could send would be appreciated. After the show next week I'll wrip it back apart and try ti fix the clock. If not, try to clean the clock with alcohol to remove all the dirt that has accumalted in the previous years.
I may end up buying a rebuild kit for the clock and tach and just rebuild both. Logged I'm not sure about the gray wire with the red tracer is. I have the Brown lead at the negative side of the coil but the hook up at the tach terminal is orange. I think the clock part is sealed up in a metal canister that's not easily opened. Should I just try to hook up the black cable to the coil and see what happens when I start the car? Ahhh someone wasn't paying attention lol.
Since I race I thought it would be a nice part of my dash. I took the dark blue wire to the original clock power supply. I bought mine from year one for my 69 roadrunner. The white wire you can see in the picture runs to the coil - it should be gray but doesn't matter. As it seems there is no constant 12V source which would explain the non working clock. The dash frame is the ground - , the long screw on the back is the power for the tach, which would be the blue + , this goes to the fuse block.