Sorry if I am not supposed to link outside links but no one has told me how to post a picture yet. After tightening I added a ring of silicone around the edge of the element as an extra precaution. ±10°C could easily be a difference of 1-2 in hardness. One did not work from the get go and other worked spotty before it even had a chance to get hot. Go easy on me fellas, electrical and wiring diagrams are not a strength of mine. If using a different outlet make sure you get a cord that will fit the proper style.
If you know how to translate it, wiring everything up is quite simple. Second question is about power, this oven is a three phase, although we run it on single phase off a converter. I'll keep this brief as the point of the instuctable is not to teach you how to wire electric panels. Thus any high inrush currents associated with reactive or lamp loads are greatly reduced. The instructions are written in Chinenglish; so a bit of a challenge to interpret the price was right. If someone can tell me how to load a picture from photobucket, I can show you the setup That is correct! KoreyI, if you can test between the element end connections that would be one test but even that doesn't rule out bad wiring or a short to ground. You can then break the 220v into the two independent 110v legs inside the smoker.
You ask Is the output always at 1 level full power or should I expect increases in amps? Doesn't make sense to me either, no i am not sure thats what is happening. A single march 809 pump pulls about 1. I will be gone all weekend but I will try running just one burner and see if I still have the same issue. Basically the green heater air gun blows heat onto the metal base plate, to dry the top of a bonnet mop, round towel like pad , carpet shampoo sprayed onto carpet is absorbed by the drying bonnet mop! I open the circuit breaker serving my kilns just to be sure there is nothing energized. Wiring Diagram Attached for Review Thanks again - I am going to check both tests as you've suggested. As such the oven would be energized without any temperature control.
Many users also request lead wires that extend from one end that make the installation more flexible as the temperature controller is easily adaptable to this configuration. Let's start with the temperature sensor. Quite ambitious for a first project. Thanks for the quick reply! We will combine some common and off-the-shelf components to easily and safely achieve this goal. Not so much size but style. I ordered the 90 degree bend in mine.
If it isn't doing this then some pid parameter is wrong I would guess. You cant open both sides of the heating element without two relays. I would like to analyze it. Another problem I have also got a non contact magnetic interlock which I am unsure how it would fit into the circuit. I am not entirely sure of how it works, ie what makes it rated 3220W? Any advise much appreciated Look forward to a reply Click to expand.
Controls how much over or under the temperature can be. If you are at all unsure however, please speak to someone who can offer you professional advice as you are working with mains voltage electricity and it is quite dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Without a switch to completely cut power to the heating element, one leg will always be hot. As to the heating elements. And if that were the case, it doesn't make sense that it would have been able to regulate at the lower temperature. Fortunately there are two things that you should have easy access to that will ensure you can get a pretty accurate calibration. And be aware that wiring diagrams vary greatly depending on the exact equipment you are using.
I remember playing around with the controller and putting it on the scope, but I don't think I have actually run it on the kilns yet. Do you have or have access to a clamp meter? If I had to reach into a kiln, I would either open the 2-pole circuit breaker feeding the kiln, open a wall-mounted disconnect switch, or if I am going to work on the unit, unplug it from the 240 volt receptacle and turn off the 120 volt control circuit. Basically it's a kit with the large box option. Mask, glasses and gloves at a bare minimum. Not that it would help your issues. It did, however, work flawlessly when the element was not plugged into the panel.
The manufacturer spec sheet says less than 2mA but elsewhere in there literature is says it can be up to 30mA for the bigger capacity relays. They were available in assorted wattages , sizes , shapes. That's correct, but it makes no sense that the ssr switches with one element but not with two. Why would you change how they're wired at all? If the temperature is massively off, check to ensure all the wires are properly connected and the pins are not mixed up. In the settings we will use this value to adjust the probe reading.
. This is far more than I'm going to need, but keeping the current lower than the maximum will extend the lifespan of the device and keep it running cooler. The heat is not generated by the smoker elements as direct heat, rather by the resistance in the wire against the amperage. Probably doesn't matter in this case. I recommend starting with an ice bath and then checking with boiling water. Castermmt Joined: 27 Feb 2012 Posts: 3 Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:40 pm Post subject: It seems as if I'm not the only person having such issues.