In several cases you may choose to cut and reroute the wire to place the sensor, relay, or plug in a different location. Bad grounding seems like a better guess now, agreed. I originally wrote this huge post, then edited it down to the bare essentials when I started this thread. We've got them right here. I've had batteries, with no load, test fine.
Try to use the original wire to the greatest extent possible, as it has the proper color coding. A good battery with no load will read 12. A lot of Mustangs use the 4 post solenoid switch including 1968 through 1973 that I know of have both of those years here. The terminals are dip soldered, where applicable, to limit resistance voltage loss. Run in, still have no start or lights anywhere. It was in fact low I'm guessing that this problem is indeed draining the battery. You will need certain wires and connectors such as the part of the exisiting harness that goes to your blower motor and resistor.
Each wire was cleaned using a rag and ordinary hand cleaner GoJo. It was a bit of an impulse buy. Pretty much everything on this website is , if you want to use something,. . Next check the ground and be sure it is clean and tight where it connects to the body. Does the battery run down overnight? After doing this, I don't understand why Ford changed the location of the Starter Relay S Terminal wire between the 1964 Falcon and Comet harnesses. Ignition is protected by fusible link s only.
Put your volt meter on the battery, you should have 12+ volts. You will require some knowledge of wiring diagrams for your vehicle. I'm not a big fan of 'easter egg hunting' the problem, if the car won't turn over by jumping C to D, I'd remove the starter and have it tested. That will make solving any problems later on much easier, plus if I ever gasp! Turned battery cut-off to on, tested voltage at the cable not the battery post, reads about 12v. Someone had incorrectly told me to look at the shifter handle area, so I took the steering wheel off and looked around in there. To me, this is just another example of how little actual engineering went into the wiring into the Ford vehicles in this era.
With any product there are pros and cons. Run in and turn the key. For safety and functionality, replacing your old Classic Ford engine wiring harness with a new reproduction harness is a very smart investment. Creating and stocking an extra harness for no good reason is a waste of money and an annoyance for folks working on the cars. The kit does not mention anywhere that the gauges in my 1973 Ford are 6 volt gauges and require a resistor instead of the 12 volt gauge wire included in the kit. Also, the little barrel thing above is listed as 152a.
Another is yellow, goes up the harness. Oh, and I said before that the voltage when the key is on reads zero. Also, I've grouped them by what they related to - in the actual manual these are interleaved together in various ways - so yes, the page numbers are out of order. It now tests at 4. The neutral safety switch and shifter linkage have been flakey for a while, so I figured that was the prob. The wires were laid over the motor to determine approximate locations.
The wires above are 37 and 152 on the diagram, respectively. Be certain it is in park and emergency brake on any time you attempt this startup method. The connector I had was cracked so I chose to disassemble and replace. And running 90A through the entire Comet harness is definitely not a safe thing to do. Does the key need to be in the on position? B - The neutral start switch interrupts the Red - Blue Stripe lead which is the starter solenoid actuator signal line.
Check to see if you have 12v on the battery cable where they connect to the battery. If not, then you can remove all associated wiring. Check the left side,where it connects to the battery cable. After the electrical functions have been verified, the harness lengths were adjusted by routing and cutting out excess wire lengths. The instructions give you a good reference point for where the wires go however some of the colors appeared to be wrong where they tell you how to wire up the turn signal switch so be sure to have wiring diagrams and also look at the wiring instructions online for a Painless wiring kit. The yellow one goes to the voltage regulator, with a small barrel shaped thing that looks almost like a capacitor on a pigtail.
Then move on to the starter switch. The original harness was completely unwrapped; all coverings and tape were removed. Location will be determined by the availability of space. Clarification Hey, thanks for all the help!!! I'll shoot a photo next time I'm down at the car--computer is up at the house, Ranchero in the lower pasture That would mean that the battery is grounded to the body properly, right? The computer will throw error codes for this but that's ok. None of my Ranchero's use the 4 post switch. The jumper you picture C to D is correct to turn the starter. This meant changing the lengths and routing of essentially every wire.
Some points: A- There is no circuit protection in the form of fuses on the ignition circuit. Do I need to remove the original wire from B and D? C - If the battery is good and you have a good ground connection between the engine block and the battery, a wire from battery plus + to the plus + side of your coil and then jumping your starter switch to turn the engine should result in the car running. What the hell is going on here??? Sometimes fuse links get mis-installed, and you can't tell it's missing. Cry for a few minutes. Using this diagram allows you do establish a power distribution which reduces the number of power connections to the rest of the vehicle.